Pictured here: (left to right) Gari's complex, mango, electric samuri and spicy tuna rolls.

Here is the second of seven installments about South Sound maki sushi.

Gari of Sushi
Where: 1209 S. 38th St., Tacoma; 253-475-3456
Hours: Lunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Dinner served 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Price: $-$$ (Entrees under $30)

Gari of Sushi chef-owner Kazuya “Kazu” Kamada calls his Osaka style sushi more assertive than other styles, which he delivers in the form of bold ingredients and custom sauces with secret ingredients.

In Kamada’s sushi universe, rolls are more fish than rice and sauces add dimension that renders soy sauce unnecessary. However, should a diner want a drizzle of soy, Kamada blends his own custom soy sauce at Gari. His other sauces also are custom blends. He won’t divulge ingredients, but said he has several sauces that serve as base sauces -- ranging from mild and creamy to zippy and flavorful -- and he can add or manipulate ingredients to change the character of each sauce.

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