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Sue Kidd is the Lifestyle Editor at The News Tribune and the ringleader for the Food and Home&Garden sections. She has worked as a food journalist at Northwest newspapers since 1993, most recently as a food writer, editor and restaurant reviewer in King County before joining The News Tribune in 2004. Her food obsessions at the moment are honey, cheese and oysters.

Craig Sailor is the Arts&Entertainment editor at The News Tribune. He grew up on a garlic farm near Gilroy, Calif. and now farms oysters in his spare time at Willapa Bay. He’s traveled the world from Kyoto/Kuala Lumpur/Hong Kong to Zanzibar in search of great food.

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Good eats and drinks around Tacoma, Pierce County and South Puget Sound
Thursday, February 19th, 2009
Posted by Sue Kidd @ 05:49:10 pm

Friendly Foods on Center Street in Tacoma sells three or four different kinds of pirozhky.

I caught just a brief mention of pierogi on a food show a month or so ago. It was enough to get me intrigued with making that at home.

And so I launched Project Pierogi. Or Project Piroshky. Or Project Piroghi. There are a lot of ways to spell and make meat and vegetable stuffed vessels. Update alert! Until recently, ahem, I knew little about the differences between all these meat-filled vessels. Readers have told me about the difference between pierogi (boiled meat vessels, dumpling like) and piroshky (fried meat vessels, turnover like), and have given me a big list of all the versions of all kinds of Eastern European meat vessels (there are many). A dozen readers have offered me recipes for pierogi, piroshky, piroghi and __ (insert various names and variations there) and I intend to share them with you in a story. I love that when you know little about something, TNT readers line up to tell you what you need to know. And give recipes for it. Lots of recipes. I love recipes. Please send me recipes.

[More:]

In my quest to make them, I wanted to find examples locally. Then, I intended to cajole someone into giving me the recipe, or at least deconstruct what makes good pierogi or piroshky or piroghi delicious (in theory anyway). I went to the European Deli Romka, which I wrote about earlier this year. Nope. But they do still have a vast selection of Eastern European soda pop and interesting cheese.

Then I remembered our HomePage Editor Kate McEntee asked me about a Russian/Ukrainian/Eastern European grocery store at Center and Union – Friendly Foods. And there they were -- pirozhky.

The display case also yielded warm, meat-filled fried belyash (a pork-filled turnover, $1.50) and fried chebureky (something I can only describe as resembling a fried sausage-filled quesadilla, sans the cheese, $1.50).

The pirozhky (99 cents each) were delicious, if not a little greasy (they probably need to turn up the temperature of their fryer, or move the inventory in the display case quicker). The cabbage pirozhky (99 cents each) had a nice pungent flavor with an acidic twist, likely from the addition of a bit of vinegar from the taste of it. Potato pirozhky combine creamy mashed potatoes with a garlic-onion bite. Day-old meat pirozhky (discounted to 50 cents each) was a bad idea. The day-old texture was unpalatable. Stale and greasy – not so good.

Just beneath the pirozhky was something that really pushed my carbivore interest – fresh bread. I saw a bakery employee pull loaves from the oven and slide them into the display case. I took home a warm loaf of kievsky bread ($3.99), which turned out to be a sour-tasting bread – too sour for me in flavor and too dense in texture to make good sandwiches, so I froze it with the intention of later turning it into a savory-sour bread pudding dish.

Friendly Foods bakes its bread fresh on site.

Another discovery: cake. Made in house, the cake selection smelled and looked delicious. The cherry cake ($5.99 a pound) was more dry than I would have preferred, but the real cherry filling (not from a can!) was an appreciated touch. The same cherry filling was inside the cherry pastry ($1.25). Other pastries came in savory and sweet versions.

UPDATE: If you want to send me a recipe for pierogi or piroskhi or well.. any Eastern European meat-filled vessel, please do so at sue.kidd@thenewstribune.com.

Friendly Foods
3612 Center Street, Tacoma
253-752-5649

Categories: Store grazing