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Sue Kidd is the Lifestyle Editor at The News Tribune and the ringleader for the Food and Home&Garden sections. She has worked as a food journalist at Northwest newspapers since 1993, most recently as a food writer, editor and restaurant reviewer in King County before joining The News Tribune in 2004. Her food obsessions at the moment are honey, cheese and oysters.

Craig Sailor is the Arts&Entertainment editor at The News Tribune. He grew up on a garlic farm near Gilroy, Calif. and now farms oysters in his spare time at Willapa Bay. He’s traveled the world from Kyoto/Kuala Lumpur/Hong Kong to Zanzibar in search of great food.

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Good eats and drinks around Tacoma, Pierce County and South Puget Sound
Friday, June 19th, 2009
Posted by Sue Kidd @ 05:27:31 am

The waterfront view at Harbor Lights. Peter Haley / The News Tribune

A surf-and-turf menu, stiff drinks and serious hospitality have kept Harbor Lights an anchor on the Ruston Way waterfront for five decades. It celebrates its 50th year this year.

Sure, Harbor Lights probably didn’t serve rhubarb cosmos in the 1950s – that’s the modern influence Anthony’s brought when the Northwest chain bought Harbor Lights in 2000.

But Jeanie DeSmith, who served as hostess for more than two decades at Harbor Lights before retiring a few years ago, said the backbone of the restaurant – its staff and service – are the foundation, and the reason why Harbor Lights persists. Oh, and the stiff drinks don’t hurt, she said. The strong cocktails are leftovers from Harbor Lights founder Anton Barcott, who later handed over the operation to daughter LaMoyne Hreha before Anthony’s bought it.

“Everyone called him boss,” recalled DeSmith of Barcott. “He’d be down there and the guys could come into the lounge, he would have a drink – a ‘toot,’ that’s what he called it. ... He was a great man to work for.”

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