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Sue Kidd is the Lifestyle Editor at The News Tribune and the ringleader for the Food and Home&Garden sections. She has worked as a food journalist at Northwest newspapers since 1993, most recently as a food writer, editor and restaurant reviewer in King County before joining The News Tribune in 2004. Her food obsessions at the moment are honey, cheese and oysters.
Craig Sailor is the Arts&Entertainment editor at The News Tribune. He grew up on a garlic farm near Gilroy, Calif. and now farms oysters in his spare time at Willapa Bay. He’s traveled the world from Kyoto/Kuala Lumpur/Hong Kong to Zanzibar in search of great food.
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The ribs at Andre's Bar & Grill are served with fries and slaw.
The makeover inside Andre’s Bar & Grill in Bonney Lake is impressive. You might not even guess it used to be a Mazatlan Mexican restaurant.
Gone are the baskets of chips and the wooden booths. The restaurant now carries a sophisticated vibe that’s comfortably upscale, but still family friendly. The pendant lighting dims moody, the cushy booths trend stylish and the patterned carpet provides an attractive upgrade from most restaurants. The lounge looks downright swank with leather couches and low cocktail tables.

Chef Billy Roberson prepares to place a prawn on the Cicada Surf-n-Turf entree at Cicada Restaurant in Olympia. The dish combines New York strip steak, asparagus-potato hash, prawns, and corn-tomato butter sauce. (Janet Jensen/The News Tribune)
By Craig Sailor
The News Tribune
The scene: Occupying a corner spot on Olympia’s main drag and kitty-corner from the new City Hall under construction, Cicada is an intimate dining destination. Big windows look out to the street while local art fills its interior walls. The restaurant is named after the big, vociferous bugs native to the southern United States.
People in the kitchen: Billy Roberson is the chef and co-owner of the almost three-year-old restaurant – and a native of New Orleans (thus the name choice). Roberson spent five years with the Ramblin Jacks restaurant group in Olympia before striking out on his own. While Roberson concentrates on food and wine, general manager and co-owner Lisa Smith is the genius behind the restaurant’s inventive cocktail list. “She has a furious martini following,” Roberson says.
The food: Roberson says the two most important aspects of his cuisine are making everything he can from scratch and using as much local food as he can. All proteins on the menu are from the Northwest except for the occasional tuna, he says. Roberson has cooked on every coast from Maine to Alaska and “seafood is what I care the most about,” he says. He struggles to describe his cooking style but ends up calling it “a South by Northwest approach.” He leans more Italian than French, but “the basis of my cuisine is definitely rooted in the South,” where food was taken very seriously when he was growing up, he says.
The Parkway Tavern will have its fourth annual IPA Fest Saturday. Here, an e-mail with details from the Parkway's always snarky manager John O'Gara about what's on tap:

California farmer and author David Mas Masumoto, best known for his 1995 meditation on agriculture, “Epitaph for a Peach,” will be in Tacoma Monday to read from his newest work, “Wisdom of the Last Farmer.”
He’ll be at King’s Books, 218 St. Helens Ave., at 7 p.m. Monday. The event is cosponsored by the Tahoma Food Policy Coalition.
Third-generation farmer Masumoto describes his new book as a memoir that focuses on his relationship with his father, Joe Takashi Masumoto.
After the elder Masumoto suffered a stroke, says the author, “I had to teach him how to farm again. The only way for him to get his health back was to go back to farming.”
It was during the years following his father’s first stroke that “I began to realize the wisdom he had passed down to me... the everyday lessons he would teach me.”
The book deals with the role reversal involved when a son must become teacher to his father.

Pictured here: Ginger-lemon ice. Craig Sailor/The News Tribune
Remember those days of Sno Cones – the ice melting down your arm and the sticky, fruity syrup delivering a sweet treat on a sweltering August day?
Apply that concept to a grown-up palate with flavored spirits and you've got Adult Sno Cones, a shaved ice specialty concoction served every Tuesday and Thursday during August after 4 p.m. at Toscanos Café and Wine Bar in Puyallup.
We asked Chef Tom Pantley of Toscanos for recipes and he shared three. We modified one, a limoncello flavored shaved ice, by adding a homemade ginger-lemon simple syrup. Click read more for the recipes.

Carol Yanusevich, center and Julie Jones, right, raise their glasses to toast the 50th anniversary of Harbor Lights Restaurant, Thursday evening, August 13, 2009. Long-time patrons Ardene Mattich and husband Ed Mattich, from left were among those attending the festivities.( Janet Jensen/The News Tribune)
You may have seen C.R. Roberts' story Saturday on Harbor Lights turning 50 years old.
Over at our Bizz Buzz blog, Roberts has a list of other local restaurants and watering holes that are 50 years old or older. Check out the list and let him know if he's left anything off.

Bacon pancakes at Original Pancake House.
TNT Diner reader Heather e-mailed me asking me about the new Original Pancake House on Meridian in Puyallup. I dutifully went to research pancakes and found a great discovery - bacon pancakes. It’s an efficient and tasty way to eat breakfast - bacon and flapjacks all in one vessel. What’s not to like?
The Original Pancake House, a Portland-based chain, also has about 15 other kinds of pancakes besides bacon: Banana, coconut, potato, blueberry, buckwheat, sourdough, corn, wheat germ, granola, Georgia pecan, Hawaiian pineapple, blueberry, chocolate chip and the classic pigs in a blanket. And there's a lot more breakfast on the menu - in fact, that's all they serve.

Puyallup High School grads from left, Wade Reynolds, Jordan Caine, Tim Satre, and Scott Reynolds, right, opened Bagel Boyz Bakery July 19 in Puyallup. Photo by Dean J. Koepfler/The News Tribune.
Tonya Reynolds remembers when the idea for Bagel Boyz Bistro was just small talk around her kitchen table.
Her sons – fraternal twins Wade and Scott Reynolds – were kvetching that there weren’t any bagel bakeries in Puyallup. They grabbed a notebook and started jotting down ideas – those ideas formulated the yeasty origins of Bagel Boyz Bistro, which they opened with Puyallup High School classmates Jordan Caine and Tim Satre on July 19 in downtown Puyallup.
The four partners – all 19 years old – are 2008 graduates of Puyallup High School. They run the business with help from friends and family like Tonya Reynolds. The four partners are self-funded – they paid cash to start up the business. Wade is the foodie. He worked as a line cook at The Rose restaurant in Puyallup. Jordan and Wade both were students in the culinary arts program at Puyallup High. Scott and Tim lean toward the business side of Bagel Boyz.

Julia Child’s birthday is this Saturday, Aug. 15. Do you have anything planned to commemorate the treasured chef? Going to see the movie "Julie & Julia" that opened last week? Hosting a dinner party, or cooking Child’s favorites?
Gordon Naccarato will host a celebratory Julia party Saturday at his restaurant, Pacific Grill (the party also celebrates the fourth anniversary of the downtown restaurant). Karyn Lindberg, a food columnist for our sister paper The Olympian, is taking a cue from Bon Appetit magazine and hosting a private dinner party at her home Saturday night toasting Julia Child with a menu of Child’s favorite dishes. Click "read more" to see the menus and memories that Naccarato and Lindberg shared with me.
Are you planning anything special? Even if it’s something small, such as seeing the movie, post a comment and let TNT Diner readers know.
Diners are curious – what happened to the Indochine Café on Mildred in Fircrest?
It closed July 12 - and in the same location, Royal Thai Bistro opened Aug. 1. Heng Han is the owner of Royal Thai Bistro. His brother Eric Han manages it. The menu is mostly Thai - a change from Indochine’s broader focused Southeast Asian menu – but one of the Indochine Café assistant chefs joined the staff at Royal Thai Bistro.
Hong Ngov and husband Sean Yean, who owned the Mildred Indochine Café, still own and will continue to operate the sister Indochine Café on Pearl - and the head chef Savath Sok remains at the Pearl restaurant. And here's the back story.
Mark Eggen wants to serve the frostiest mugs of beer in Bonney Lake. With a mug froster and high-tech beer taps installed at his new restaurant Hop Jack's, he just might. His beer is served at a chilly 27 degrees. My teeth hurt thinking about it.
A beer-sicle might have slid down parched pipes a little more easily two weeks ago during the heat blast, but even on an overcast Monday, Eggen had a better than expected turnout when he opened Hop Jack’s yesterday. And the brew was cold, as promised, he said.
The casual restaurant, located a few doors down from Old School Custard and Jersey Mike’s subs, is the first of its kind for Eggen, who also owns The Rock pizza franchises in South Hill and Lacey.

By Sue Kidd and Craig Sailor
Freighthouse Square is a microcosm of what’s good about the culinary landscape in Tacoma: It’s big on variety. Lots of it.
Gyros, fish and chips, bubble tea, lumpia, fried chicken, bulgogi, curry chicken, burritos, Chicago-style hot dogs and scratch-baked cookies all can be found under one roof.
Save for one chain restaurant – Subway – Freighthouse Square is an incubator for small, family-owned and operated restaurants.
Freighthouse Square restaurants are a sincere reflection of Tacoma – a little big gritty and worn around the edges, but with hard-working people at the core. And there is quality noshing to be found there at fair prices.
As much as there are success stories, there are failures, too. Restaurants come and go: Sushi, Italian, Belgian and German eateries have all cycled through in recent months. The only positive of that failure is there always seems to be something new.
Restaurants thrive there, too. Wendy’s Vietnamese, Mediterranean Palace and Paya Fish and Chips have called Freighthouse home for about 20 years each.
Here, a look at 10 (and a few more) restaurants, all under one giant roof at Freighthouse Square.
Editor's note: This is the third installment of Ten-in-One, where we eat at 10 restaurants grouped in a compact area. Read our South Tacoma Way Ten-in-One report, published last October, and our McKinley Ten-in-One report, published in February.

The strawberry cupcake served at Le Cupcake in Graham showcased the seasonality of the cupcakes.
A blueberry cupcake with a hidden center of caramelized blueberries and homemade caramel. A coconut-marshmallow-chocolate cupcake that’s a kitschy spin on a Hostess SnoBall. A peanut butter-fudge cupcake that made me a little weak, it was so rich and chewy. A strawberry cupcake with a base of buttery pound cake. There's a revolving daily cupcake menu at the new bakery-cafe Le Cupcake, which opened five weeks ago in Graham. You never know what will be in the display case. I like the element of cupcake surprise.
Owner Faith Guptill’s grandmother won awards for her cakes and desserts at the Puyallup Fair decades ago. Today, some of those recipes appear in the dessert case at Le Cupcake.
Guptill’s family has lived in Pierce County since her grandmother migrated to Tacoma from Sweden.

Associated Press photo
I took a cheese eating tour to Portland and on my way, I stopped at Burgerville in Vancouver for an asparagus grilled cheese sandwich.
I did a double take when I noticed a wine counter adjacent to the order counter. It's the first for the chain that serves burgers, fries and shakes made with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. With Burgerville looking to open a Tacoma location, I wonder if a Burgerville here might serve wine and beer.
Click "read more" to peruse an Associated Press story about wine and burgers served in unlikely places - fast casual restaurants, including Burgerville and Chipotle; as well as coffee chains like Starbucks, which opened its first wine-coffee concept restaurant in Seattle last month. In South Sound, some locations of the coffee house chain Forza are expanding to serve wine. I wrote about the Gig Harbor Forza in March after owners Chad Roy and Scott Teodoro opened the Harbor Greens Wine Bar inside the coffee house. They've created an interesting nosh menu paired with an impressive list of affordable wine options. The Puyallup South Hill Forza also has applied for a license to serve wine, as have other Forza locations. I'll report more on that soon. Have you seen wine served at fast casual restaurants or coffee chains? I'd be interested in hearing if you have. I'm curious how to pair up wine with burgers, too. Beer seems a no-brainer burger pairing, but what kind of wine would you sip with your burger?

News Tribune file
I just called Picha farms in Puyallup and they're reporting they have just a few days of raspberries left for the season (and blackberries, too).
Anthony's restaurants have been serving Picha raspberries and berries from other Washington berry farms in some of its desserts and drinks. On the menu at Anthony's: Washington Berry Shortcake and cocktails like Spiked Berry Lemonade, Northwest Berry Cosmos, Blueberry Drop and a Bumbleberry Rita.
With berry season dwindling, Anthony's soon will start serving desserts and drinks made with Washington grown peaches.
Click "read more" for the recipe from Anthony's for Fresh Washington Berry Shortcake. You can make it with Picha raspberries or you can substitute any kind of berry or fruit.
Picha Farms
Where: At the corner of 66th Avenue East and 52nd Street East, just off River Road.
Call: 253-841-4443
Anthony's Restaurants
Point Defiance: 5910 North Waterfront Drive, Tacoma; 253-752-9700
Harbor Lights: 2761 North Ruston Way, Tacoma; 253-752-8600
Other Anthony's locations: http://anthonys.com/restaurants/locations.html
