Ed's Note: This is a Second Bite. I'll write them about restaurants I've previously reviewed, when changes in menus, chefs or owners occur.

Babblin' Babs Bistro began serving weekend breakfast June 1. I dropped in on Sunday. It was one of the best, and most leisurely, breakfasts I've had in recent memory.

Who knew sodium-free sausage could be so delicious? Babblin' Babs chef/owner William Mueller makes his own sausages. While I reached for the salt before taking a second bite of the $3.50 side order, the two plump pork patties woke me up: made from ground loin, the sausage was ultra-lean and clean-flavored.

The rest of my breakfast ­- waffles topped with lox and dilled crème fraiche, $10.95 -- was equally admirable.

Mueller likes grape seeds. His cooks with grapeseed oil. His waffles are made with flour milled from the seeds of Riesling grapes. Although Mueller uses a bit of all-purpose flour to take the rough edge off the Riesling flour, the nutty, hearty flavor of the Riesling flour shines, giving the waffle a rusty brown hue and density that stops short of rubbery, sort of like that addictive Ethiopian injera bread.

Other breakfasts include a Benedict with French ham, quiche, crab cakes, baked apple-peach "soup" with oatmeal, breakfast sandwiches and house-made chorizo with eggs. Prices are $6.95-$12.95. My breakfast came with some of the ripest strawberries I've seen this season.

Caveat diner: Babs' eggs are steam "scrambled" over a water bath in a hotel pan. No fried, no poached, no over-easy. Mueller said he chose to steam the eggs, partly because his tiny kitchen lacks a hood, and also because he said he wants "the true smell of the food to come through," and wants to avoid heavy doses of butter and grease that often makes breakfast-lovers seek post-meal naps.

The tiny, comfortable cafe has just only six tables inside. A rush could swamp the kitchen, but a tasty bellini (Italian sparkling wine and white peach nectar) and live music (a classical guitarist entertained the day I dined at Babs) made my hour-long breakfast better.

Babblin' Babs Bistro: 2724 N. Proctor St., Tacoma; 253-761-9099. Breakfast 9 a.m.- 2 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.